Soil Testing: results and interpretation

The image below shows the results of my spring 2012 soil test for my lawn areas. This was the $33 test from University of Maine Cooperative Extension. While the test may seem a bit expensive, the information provided is well worth the price.

2012 Soil Test Results

Previous years' tests had suggested I needed to add more compost (hence my earlier blog showing overspreading compost), and this test shows that I can still use a bit more compost. 


My calcium and pH levels are shown as above optimal, but the levels shown better suit my grass strain (see photo below). I achieved these higher levels through the addition of gypsum (gypsum raises pH, makes soil nitrogen more available, and prevents compaction and salt damage) over a four-year period (I used approximately 80 pounds per year on my lawn area). I will have a blog later this month devoted entirely to gypsum.

Photo of lawn-- look at that beautiful clover!

Interpretation of Soil Test Results


Macronutrients (N-P-K)
 These are all in the reasonable range. Some may say that my nitrogen level is low. I would not argue that the reading is low, but I expected as much. This is before any work on my lawn and my addition of compost and vermicompost tea will get the microorganisms fired up to start making nitrogen available. Also, I have clover in my lawn to pull nitrogen out of the air and fix it in the soil. I will not “fertilize” my lawn with nitrogen based fertilizer because it is not really needed. If you read the fine print, I would use 2 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet, but only ½ that in late August (because I mulch my clippings) and because of organic program I would use only ½ of that. That takes me to ¼ pound of nitrogen per 1000 square feet. My compost overspreading this spring should supply my needed nitrogen as well as any sulfur and potash.


Soil Life (Microorganisms)
My microbial biomass index is 44ppm, which is on a 1-100 scale. I am trying to get closer to 60ppm (optimal range). As I add more compost to the lawn (recall that I took these samples before my spring 2012 compost overspreading) the level will increase.


Micronutrients
The decrease in micronutrient availability to plants as pH increases is not a great concern to me because it is a balancing act (given my increased pH and additions of humus-rich compost to the yard). Also, I plan to supplement my vermicompost tea with sea weed this year to boost the level of micronutrients that are available to the grass plants.


Long View
My long-term goal is to have no external inputs to my lawn (just aeration, overseeding as needed, and vermicompost tea), so everything I do is a step in that direction. It is important to remember that small steps are the best approach. Make sure your additions are based on the recommendations in the soil test. You don’t want to overshoot—that would waste both money and time. Remember that I am mulching my lawn clippings, so there is no net loss of anything (macro or micronutrients).


Early in your organic switch, you should test your soil annually to check your additions. After that you can back off to once every three to five years-- preventive lawn maintenance. If lawn problems develop more frequent testing may be necessary. 

Cat waste and worms

At the Common Ground Fair this year a number a people asked me about cat waste and vermicomposting.

An obvious concern with pet waste is pathogens and the potential for human contact (see related post: http://wormmainea.blogspot.com/2010/05/making-doggie-dumpster-pet-waste.html). This was a pretty common thread of the discussions. The cautions in that blog all apply to cat waste. And for pregnant women perhaps even more so.

Another visitor had tried this and found that non-clay litter works best. I think newspaper-based litter was preferred. Others mentioned  coconut- or  pine-based litter. I also found wheat-based litter, but none of my discussions touched on that. I suspect any of these would be suitable for a vermicomposting system.

Another friend wrote in with this article (http://www.amnh.org/nationalcenter/youngnaturalistawards/2005/Eric.htmlA) about a direct vermicomposting system.

All very interesting. I am very allergic to cats, so I must rely on others. Nevertheless, the discussions are interesting and provide an alternative to sending the organic waste to the landfill.

Cheers,

Mark

Making a Doggie Dumpster-- pet waste composting solution

First: what the heck is a Doggie Dumpster? This is a neat place to deposit and compost pet waste using worms in your yard. The picture below shows the finished product installed in my yard.

As I have written before ( http://www.wormmainea.com/Projects.html  and  http://wormmainea.blogspot.com/2009/04/retreating-snow-uncovers-presents-from.html), this is a great way to deal with pet waste you pick up in your yard. Far better than putting it in the trash in a sealed plastic bag, because you are composting the waste and using it to fertilize your yard (OK for lawns and perennial plants/trees; NOT OK for garden food areas).
 

Supplies: 

All you need to get started is a roll-top can, 1/2 # of worms, and some leaves, peat, straw, or hay for bedding.

There is not magic to a roll-top trash can, but I think these look OK in the yard and you can open the top with your foot or shovel to make deposits. in my experience, the roll top also keeps critters out of the Doggie Dumpster contents.

I purchased the roll top can for $15 at K-Mart in Waterville. I'm using leaves and I have worms, so those are free.
 
Construction:

Cut the bottom off of your trash can. I cut the bottom 3/4 inch, leaving me about 16" of can liner. That is a reasonable hole (both from the ability to dig and reasonable volume). My hack saw did the job quickly and neatly. That's really all you need to do.

Selecting a location and installation:
First you want to be sure this is in a place you can be sure that children will not get into it and that this is not in an area that is close to ground water or liable to flooding.

I chose an area in the backyard  where the grass could use some help that is out of the way. I used the bottom I had cut off to estimate the diameter of the hole.

After that, it is dig, dig, dig until you can fit the bottom of the can in the hole with the top exposed.

Now you add a thin layer of bedding (leaves, peat, straw or hay) to the bottom and gently put some worms in and cover with another thin layer of bedding. You don't want to add too much bedding, because you want to have space for your additions.  I started this one with 1/2 # of worms, you can use more or fewer, but this works for my anticipated input volume. I added about 1 quart of dry bedding (total for top and bottom).

Finally, I back-filled around the hole to fill-in any gaps around the sides of the can. Here is how it looks with the top on.

Use and maintenance:

To make a deposit, add the waste and cover with bedding (leaves, peat, straw or hay). Again, don't add too much bedding, just enough to cover the feces.

Don't bag the poo you put in-- even in a biodegradable bag! The time it takes for the bag to break down would mean that the hole is filling faster than the worms can access the waste.I think this would work best with policing up poo in your yard (where you can use a shovel) or if you already own a pooper scooper (or, or, or, or)  then you could pick up as you walk your pet and deposit when you get home.

You should not have to add any water to this because it is below ground level.

I would suggest you add more worms if your getting any bad smells, and perhaps add more bedding.

What do I do when the Doggie Dumpster is full?

You will have to repeat the hole digging process when the pit is nearly full. Simply remove the bottomless can liner (wash your hands thoroughly after touching this!). Overall, the process is easy-- your sod circle from your new hold goes on top of the old hole and you water it in. You don't have to buy a new can, and you can use worms out of your worm bin.


Considerations/Limitations: 

I would consider these a great addition to a dog park or trail head; however, if users deposit poo in plastic bags it won't work. It could work with some training or information, but I am reluctant to install one at the Eastern Trail Head because of non-compliance and the potential for failure..

Cheers,

Mark