Next Steps

I've been asked about the next steps after your bin is up and running. How long does it take to fill a bin...

The next steps and speed you need to employ them really depend on you.

How warm is soil? Food breaks down more quickly and the worms reproduce more rapidly in warmer soil. Soil temps are cool if 45-60F. 60F and higher is considered warm. 

What kind if food do you put in? Some food breaks down more quickly than other types. Think about a potato and a strawberry on your counter. The potato is good for months, but the strawberry turns to mush and gets grayish mold in a matter of days. The same thing happens in your bin. Remember the worms need to food to break down before they eat it. Some food is almost immediately available for the worms to eat, and other types of food takes much longer (stalks of Brussels sprouts, ends of asparagus, broccoli stems, etc.)

How large are the pieces of food? Food breaks down faster in smaller pieces (larger surface area). 

All of these determine how fast the worms reproduce (typically 10-12 weeks), but that difference adds up in a few generations. So, I typically respond to this question as follows: an 18 gallon bin with a pound of worms will be filled by a family 4 in 3-6 months (filled as in the bin will be 2/3 full and ready to harvest). Closer to 3 months if the bin is in a warm area and the family juices weekly. (If you juice you're putting in a pound or more fruit and veggie pulp which breaks down in days). Closer to 6 moths if the bin is in a cooler area and larger pieces are added.

All that said, most people will find that they can harvest once yearly and be fine. You can harvest sooner, but you do not need to. I recommend harvesting at least annually.

Remember that Christmas is coming. If you're bin is a bit full, consider giving a pound and a bin as a gift this year. Scoop a half gallon of worm castings and worms from an active area of your bin (under the  bedding). This is bed run. That is just what the new bin needs to get off to a great start.

Regards,

Mark

Intellicon: great product with excellent warranty

After several years of service and savings (see my blog from 2009), our Intellicon had an issue in late 2011. The unit had a sensor fault (see below photos from early in the fault). Average savings of 24.3% for ET 3417.7 hours.

I contacted Intellidyne (manufacturer) with my serial number, installation date, name of installer and reported error.

Michelle Arroyo answered my call and sent me out a new sensor at no charge. 

The part arrived (with instructions) and I installed it over lunch. It was so easy!
 

This kind of service is remarkable. Intellidyne makes a great product and stands behind it.

If you have an oil boiler, look into adding one of their retrofit units.

Cheers,

Mark

Make your own compost tea!

Come on, it's easy!!

Here's my recipe for vermicompost tea:  http://www.wormmainea.com/Compost_tea.pdf

Tip of my hat to my collaborator Bruce Deuly from Texas of Deuly's Own Organics for helping me scale the recipe down to 5 gallon bucket size.

You can substitute any compost for my vermicompost.

By the way, I now routinely add 1T Neptune's Harvest and/or 1-2T seaweed (dried & pulverized by putting in a bag and running over with my car) from Scarborough beach along with unsulfured molasses or barley malt syrup. 

More information on making and using compost tea or vermicompost tea can be found here:

 http://wormmainea.blogspot.com/2008/06/seasonality-of-worm-compost-tea.html

http://wormmainea.blogspot.com/2009/04/effect-of-worm-compost-tea-on-amaryllis.html

https://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/summaries/summary.php?pub=125

All the supplies you need for making tea can be found in my Amazon store. Every view and purchase made supports WormMainea. Thank you!

Cheers,

Mark

My reluctance to scaling up vermicomposting operations

In the past year or so I have had many people ask me one of the following questions:

"Why can't you sell me worms this week (how can you be out of worms until next week)?"

"Can you supply me with 10# next week or tomorrow?"

"Why don't you make this your business?"

The specific answers to these questions differs, but they all have a common element: vermicomposting is my hobby. I do it when I want and spend only as long as I want on it. That way it is still enjoyable to me. My low-pressure attitude does take a few hits as I must keep my herd fed and plan for my annual trip to the Common Ground Fair, but otherwise I tell people that my scale of operations (FMI see Virtual Tour of WormMainea) only permits me to sell so many pounds per week (a number that varies depending on how much I did a few months ago and how much I was selling in the past few weeks). 

My personal reasons for not “expanding my worm operation” is deeply rooted in my desire to retain this as an enjoyable hobby. To expand to a commercial level operation (or to consider this as my business) would require changes in the way I grow, because as it stands I don't really track my labor by it can't be more than minimum wage. I would also need more space which would come at a price either outside the home [rent $] or taking over more of the basement [peace in my home life]. Also, to be commercially viable I would probably need to exploit efficiencies of scale (to make my time investment worthwhile) by investing in better equipment: a food shredder, grow mats or heated tables, etc. 

For me to operate WormMainea as a hobby limits my production to 3-6 pounds of worms per week (as I said earlier temperature, previous sales, and past attentiveness influence this). With sufficient notice I can supply perhaps as much as 10#, but when I sell more to a single person, I have to compromise and sell to fewer individuals. This generally works out and customers are typically very understanding and reasonable. But this brings me to my point: a better alternative to scaling up is for me to continue to encourage other growers in Maine (and elsewhere) to replicate my operation. No, I don't feel that it is necessary for me to ship worms outside of New England

Some people are naturally inclined towards business, and vermicomposting is a hobby with potential. If you like growing worms and have the space to accommodate multiple bins, why not give some to your friends and/or put some up for sale on Craigslist (or elsewhere)? The compromises one would have to make to sell on an economically viable scale may not be major obstacles for everyone. I suggest you start small and figure out if you want to expand.

Cheers,

Mark

Air source heat pump

Our energy auditor saw this on Green Building Advisor and forwarded it to me (Thanks Erik!). 

The article discusses using solar electric and grid-tied air source heat pumps (like our GeoSpring) for hot water supply.

Read the article at http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/solar-thermal-dead

Cheers,

Mark

Taking Soil Samples for Soil Test

Since I posted my blog on interpreting soil sample results, several people have asked me about collecting soil samples. 

Collecting soil samples for your soil test is easy. Here is how I do it.

Make sure that you follow the directions exactly included with either type of test kits as it will affect the results of the test. Always make sure to use clean tools and bucket.

When you take the sample, make sure the soil is not too wet from any recent rain or prolonged watering. To get the best results take the sample before any fertilizer has been applied or at least not recently applied.

To begin you will need a clean pail or mixing container. Unless it is brand new then make sure that is well cleaned (rinsed out & dry). By not washing the pail out carefully any remnants of prior use could register in the soil test.

Use a shovel to dig a small hole 3 to 6 inches deep. With the shovel, after the hole is dug, take a sample of the turf and soil plug from top to bottom. I shoot for a sample that is about 1" down from green part of the grass (where the dirt is). That is the sample you will use for the test. Once you have the sample, place it into the pail.

Taking a soil sample from the 3-6" depth of a soil plug

To make a composite sample that is representative of the whole yard (or area you want to have analyzed), take samples from various parts of the yard. You want a total of 30 samples (this year I collected 15 from front and 15 from rear). I use my rake (shown in the photo above on the left) to take samples every 1.5 meters in a crisscross pattern. From each area try to put approximately the same amount of soil into the bucket.

Avoid areas that are near the drip line (especially if you have lead-based paint). If the soil is not dry, then put the pail aside in a sheltered, dry location and let the soil dry overnight.

Boxing up my dry mixed soil sample

Combine the soil thoroughly in the pail and remove the amount the lab requires for the test. Put the sample in the container approved for the test and mail it as directed or return it to the testing office. By mixing the soil you will be providing a typical sample. This way the sample is representative of the areas sampled and the corrective measures recommended (e.g., fertilizer) can be done evenly over all those areas the yard.

Cheers,

Mark

Gypsum for Lawns

If you have a lot of dandelions (often an indicator of imbalance in magnesium-calcium ratio) or if your soil test (see related blog entry) suggests your lawn needs more calcium (in our area this is probably likely), one of the best ways to correct the imbalance it is by spreading gypsum on your lawn. Correcting the calcium-magnesium balance also helps to prevent soil compaction.

Gypsum (instead of lime) also increases pH (in 2010 my soil test told me my pH is still a bit to acidic for the grasses I was growing.

According to the results of my soil test and the recommended target calcium level for soil, I applied 5# of pelleted gypsum per 1000 square feet (about half what I estimated I would need to add per year for 3 years) . For my approx 5000 square feet of turf lawn area that meant I'd use a little more than half a bag each application and need a bag a year for 3 years. Will use the last of my bag this fall and should be finished with gypsum amendments.

In the past I purchased my gypsum at ACE or Broadway (I prefer the Organic Traditions brand), depending on where I have a coupon. It comes in 40# bags, and I prefer pelleted gypsum because it is easy for me to spread it by hand (I don't own a drop spreader).

FMI see related posts: 

http://www.wormmainea.blogspot.com/2012/06/soil-testing-results-and-interpretation.html

http://wormmainea.blogspot.com/2010/04/natural-lawn-care-preparing-and-timing.html

Cheers,

Mark