Return Audit Results

After completing the work for the 2010 Home Energy Savings Program, we had our house audited again.

See related blog (http://wormmainea.blogspot.com/2010/08/home-efficiency-2010-continued-flir.html) for initial FLIR photos and discussion. Since the original audit we undertook a number of retrofits as discussed in related blogs

http://wormmainea.blogspot.com/2010/08/home-efficiency-2010-continued.html, http://wormmainea.blogspot.com/2010/09/air-sealing-top-and-bottom-of-house.html, http://wormmainea.blogspot.com/2010/10/water-heater-wrap-up.html,
http://wormmainea.blogspot.com/2010/11/air-sealing-electrical-outlets-on.html, and http://wormmainea.blogspot.com/2010/11/work-in-attic-air-sealing-and.html

The following show side-by-side photos before and after for same or similar areas of our home. Note that the temperature difference between inside and outside is greater now than when the audit was conducted back in August (44° vs. 65°) as compared to (82° vs. 95°). A greater difference inside vs. outside would mean that any air movement would show up more easily in the FLIR camera.

Before photo of the porch

After photo of the porch.

We didn't make any changes to the porch, so the photos are essentially the same.

Before photo of the attic hatch.

After photo of the attic hatch.

The attic hatch shows a dramatic reduction in airflow. In the recent photo you can see the bolts and wing nuts, but you don't see any air leaking.

Bert's office before.

Bert's office after

I think this photo is pretty impressive also. In the earlier photo, you can see air moving between the ceiling joists. In the current photo you don't.

Basement sill before

Basement sill after

Here again, the movement of air was reduced. The difference in air flow for some of the areas is quite dramatic, but my overall airflow wasn't reduced by a whole lot as measured by the blower door. I was hoping for a really big reduction. I don't recall the exact number right now. Erik said this was to be expected to some extent. Our house was already pretty tight and it would take some more invasive work to drop it much lower. Nevertheless, we did control some important trouble areas-- like Bert's office and the work we did meets the minimum requirement for the rebate-- 25%*. That puts my ROI at between 6-7 years at current oil and electricity prices. 

* Erik said: "The final value for my home was 1585 CFM and the final savings [as calculated by the software] was 36%. I've mentioned a few times that EM's software is pretty generous but I'd be comfortable saying real world savings around 25% [that's the number I'm using]. Another question that may arise is whether the house is 'too tight' and that it 'needs to breathe'. The BTL (Building Tightness Limit; the engineered standard for necessary air flow) for your house was 1343 CFM50. That's the point at which you need to begin adding mechanical ventilation to make up for natural air flow. You can compensate with intermittent ventilation to 70% of BTL (940) after which dedicated continual ventilation is needed. So your house is well over the various air thresholds."

I can't wait to save money and be more comfortable this winter.

Cheers,

Mark

Water heater wrap up

Here is the GeoSpring heat pump water heater installed and ready to go.

I am looking forward to a future blog on how it is working. I will wait until I have some usage data first.

Cheers,

Mark

Air Sealing-- top and bottom of the house.

When I started this home efficiency retrofit, I thought I would have trouble hitting the 25% improvement minimum. Now with the heat pump water heater (see photo prior to plumbing hookup), the Real Home Analyzer software is projecting we’ll be at 34%. WOW!

Our new heat pump water heater!

Let’s look at the air sealing component in greater detail. The majority can be done by you. In fact everything you see here I did to remedy the air flow problems in my home (for details see http://wormmainea.blogspot.com/2010/08/home-efficiency-2010-continued-flir.html).

Air Sealing the Attic Access Hatch

All you have to do is add insulation to the top of the access hatch and make a secure seal (gasket) around the lid. In this case, I added 4” of rigid foam insulation to the top (glued to the plywood) and glued the fiberglass pad on top of that. To the surround, I added some self stick gasket. Also, I added some blots and wing nuts to make the attic hatch compress the gasket to make a secure seal. This looks the same from inside my closet (not that it matters much)-- all you can see is the ends of the bolts and wing nuts. See photo of finished product.

Nice and tight-- no more dancing attic hatch on windy days.

 

Air Sealing the Sill Plate

This is a bit trickier, but only because my basement is semi-finished. Often the photos and instructions you see online are homes where there is no impediment to air sealing. In my house I had to remove the floor insulation and cover.

Floor insulation and cover hanging to access the sill plate area.

 With that out of the way, you can see the sill area-- the sill itself is behind that batt of the fiberglass insulation-- remember the fiberglass is not inhibiting air flow, it is only filtering it. Fiberglass insulation is only effective if you have controlled air flow. In my house, I had to work around plumbing & heating pipes, electrical, phone & cable lines-- all of which were typically located in this area. Not a big deal, but it made the job a bit trickier.

Sill area exposed-- note all the utility service lines.

 Now you remove all those batts of insulation-- I dropped mine on the floor while I worked.

Insulation batt that will be replaced after air sealing.

Now we can see the sill plate. It is a little tricky in this photo, but he bottom of this piece of wood is resting on the top of the cement basement wall. The size of these areas (in general-- some are smaller!) is approximately (and a little larger than) 9" x 14.5". 

Sill plate area exposed.

So I cut a bunch of pieces of 1/2" rigid foam board insulation to that size. These fit the holes (mostly) and left a little space for spray foam. The finished job is shown in the next photo. To control airflow I tried to really have the cement area covered with the blue insulation and spray foam.

Air sealing is complete-- HOORAY!

After the spray foam hardens, go back and add the batt of insulation and replace the floor insulation and covering. Now the job is completely finished.

Air Sealing the Chimney Chase (in the basement)

This was easy and really necessary-- we had a noticeable draft here that you could feel with your hand. Because the chase is in a flammable zone, you have to use fireproof caulk and spray foam. It is twice as expensive as regular, but it is easy to work with and you don't need a lot. All you need to do is seal the spaces around the aluminum pieces.

Air sealed chimney chase in basement.

Close up of sealed chimney chase in basement.

 At some point (when the sun is not so strong), I will go up to the attic to seal the top side of the chimney chase the same way.

While you have the basement ceiling pulled open, check that your utility holes are sealed. The oil service holes were not sealed well, so I gently removed the old caulk and sealed them up with spray foam.

Air sealing the oil access holes.

Next weekend I will tackle air sealing the electrical outlets on the first and second floors.

Cheers,

Mark

Efficiency Maine Home Energy Savings Program-- EXTENDED!

Efficiency Maine (http://www.efficiencymaine.com/at-home/hesp_program) has been offering an additional incentive ($1000) to get homeowners to improve the efficiency of their homes (air sealing, insulation, and space or water heating improvements).

What is it? If you follow the program and make improvements to achieve either 

1) at least 25% increase in efficiency (annual thermal energy savings) you receive 30% of the total project cost up to $1500*.

2) more than 50% increase in efficiency (annual thermal energy savings) you receive 50% of the total project cost up to $3,000*.

*Both of these are increased by $1000 if you sign up by 8/31/10, then complete the energy audit and the Incentive Application Form (http://www.efficiencymaine.com/docs/hespincentiveapplicationform.pdf) must be received by September 30, 2010, and complete all work and the Completion Form (http://www.efficiencymaine.com/docs/hespprojectcompletionform.pdf) submitted by December 31, 2010.

Step 1. You get your house audited ($400-$500). This typically entails inspection of insulation, air leakage (blower door test), mechanical heating/cooling systems evaluation. Sometimes auditors also use infrared imaging to evaluate your home. The auditor will produce a report  to guide you in determining the cost/benefit of  energy improvements you may wish to make by calculating projected savings and payback information. Note this step must be completed by a Participating Energy Advisor  (listed on the Efficiency Maine website).

Step 2. Work with a contractor of your choice to do the work. Remember that you want to get to at least 25% improvement to meet the minimum rebate criteria.

Step 3. Auditor returns and inspects the work and completes the form documenting the improved efficiency in your home.

Bottom line: if you make improvements to your home that result in a 25% increase in the efficiency of your home you can get up to $2500 back from efficiency Maine.

I have done a lot of weatherizing and made improvements to minimize waste. I was skeptical that I could make improvements for less than $5000 that would result in 25% improvement in efficiency.  So, I contacted Mary at Warm Tech (207-883-9722) for a Home Energy Analysis. This is not a home inspection, but a visit that includes a walk through of your home to give you an idea of what the audit will likely find. I had a coupon from the Sunrise Guide (http://www.thesunriseguide.com/) for a free Home Energy Analysis. Mary and Roland spent nearly an hour with us and pointed out a lot I could do. They are GREAT!

As a result of their visit, I contacted Erik North (Free Energy Maine, LLC; 207-329-7219;
www.freeenergymaine.com) to schedule an audit. Not surprisingly, he is quite busy doing audits. I scheduled our audit for August 6. 

I will post another blog about our audit and the results.

Cheers,

Mark